Category Archives: Heritage

Heritage

America the Beautiful

Katherine Lee Bates

My youthful reading naturally gravitated to history. In fact, I cannot remember when I didn’t have three of four history books in some stage of completion. Now, armed with a Kindle and an iPad, my consumption has eclipsed what is possible ingesting only words on paper. I am awash in digital history.

My preferences are for world periods that I know little about, and for American conservation history. At the moment I am reading Reston’s Defenders of the Faith. Are you curious about the origins of conflicts between the Christian and Islamic world, between Charles V and Suleyman the Magnificent? Reston is an encyclopedic source. As for American conservation history, I rarely leave the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Roosevelt, Dock, Pinchot, Bird, Rothrock, McFarland, and Lacey inevitably suck me into their vortex.

Recently I have been exploring place as a way that we Americans consider ourselves, in fact, define ourselves. A song that captures that notion for me is America the Beautiful. Consider the first stanza. What could be more evocative of place?

O beautiful for spacious skies,
For amber waves of grain,
For purple mountain majesties
Above the fruited plain!

America! America!
God shed His grace on thee,
And crown thy good with brotherhood
From sea to shining sea!

Amber waves of grain, eastern Colorado

I decided to look closer at the origins of this seminal piece of American patriotic composition. Not surprisingly, I found myself back in this frenetic high-period of American progressive politics. At the outset I knew very little about Katherine Lee Bates, the lyricist, professor, social activist, and poet whose words are memorialized in the song. Bates spent her life teaching at Wellesley College, and in addition to her teaching she wrote children’s books, travel books, and poems. Only one of her poems is famous, but, in her case, one is enough. Here are notes that she wrote about her first thoughts about this poem:

One day some of the other teachers and I decided to go on a trip to 14,000-foot Pikes Peak. We hired a prairie wagon. Near the top we had to leave the wagon and go the rest of the way on mules. I was very tired. But when I saw the view, I felt great joy. All the wonder of America seemed displayed there, with the sea-like expanse.

Purple mountains majesty, Pike's Peak

Bates would continue to craft the poem, first published in 1895, for another eighteen years. In 1910 Bates lyrics were combined with the music of Samuel A. Ward as America the Beautiful. The music began life as Ward’s hymn Materna. Ward would never meet Bates, and he died in 1903. Ward never heard America the Beautiful, his music or not. Bates is a different matter.

As I have continued to read about Bates, there are aspects of her life that are surprisingly contemporary. Bates is often described as an ardent feminist (although at that time I suspect suffragette to be more likely.) In addition, although the details of their relationship are sketchy, Katherine Lee Bates spent most of her adult life as the partner of another woman in a “Boston marriage.” While on staff at Wellesley she met Katharine Coman and began a relationship that lasted for 25 years. Most historians have described the relationship as a “romantic friendship,” but there is no doubt that they enjoyed an intensely loving partnership that lasted until Coman died of breast cancer.

Let this soak in for a moment. The author of America the Beautiful, considered by many to be the most stirring anthemic affirmation of our nation, one of the few that most Americans can sing at the drop of a hat, came from the poetry of an educated, progressive, liberated woman who spent her life in a loving relationship with someone of the same sex.

Although I said that most Americans can sing the anthem at the drop of a hat, few make it past the first verse. Sad. Bates wrote her poem at the height of the progressive movement. Here are the second and third verses, as germane and cutting now as then.

O beautiful for pilgrim feet
Whose stern, impassioned stress
A thoroughfare for freedom beat
Across the wilderness!

America! America!
God mend thine every flaw,
Confirm thy soul in self-control,
Thy liberty in law!

O beautiful for heroes proved
In liberating strife.
Who more than self the country loved
And mercy more than life!

America! America!
May God thy gold refine
Till all success be nobleness
And every gain divine!

Katherine Lee Bates found her passion for this country as she traveled west across the Great Plains to the Rocky Mountains. Her love of country is rooted in a love of American places. Roosevelt’s passions for America were similarly kindled by the landscape, by the wildlife, by the place.

Scott's Bluff, Nebraska

We have fallen heirs to the most glorious heritage a people ever received, and each one must do his part if we wish to show that the nation is worthy of its good fortune…Theodore Roosevelt

Who would have the temerity to question Roosevelt’s love of country? Who would challenge the patriotism of the amazing woman who authored America the Beautiful? Can you imagine telling either to “love it or leave it?” Yet, in these polarized times, a time when fair and balanced are neither, these are precisely the charges they would suffer. Consider how this statement from Roosevelt would be treated by some in the press today:

To waste, to destroy, our natural resources, to skin and exhaust the land instead of using it so as to increase its usefulness, will result in undermining in the days of our children the very prosperity which we ought by right to hand down to them amplified and developed…Theodore Roosevelt

Or, what about this quote from Gifford Pinchot?

The earth and its resources belong of right to its people…Gifford Pinchot

Little Missouri River, North Dakota Badlands

How would the words of these two stalwart Republicans be welcomed today? The judges may have changed, but not the principles of the ones being judged. There is a well-worn trail for us to follow, one blazed by these unequaled men and women of the past. The country may at times feel lost, but never should we. A life in conservation embraces a love of nation, a love of neighbor, a love of the wilds, a love of place. As our poet wrote,

O beautiful for heroes prov’d
In liberating strife,
Who more than self their country loved,
And mercy more than life.

Thank you, Katherine Lee Bates, for your wonderful song and beautiful life.

Here is Ray Charles’ live rendition of this soul-stripping, heart-charging song. Note that he begins with the third verse, not by accident. If this doesn’t drip with irony, with raw passion, you have no pulse.

Ted Lee Eubanks
12 Nov 2010

Faces of Flight – Space for Place

High Island, Texas

The weather heads salivated for days. Nothing provokes a Pavlovian response in weather geeks more than another storm of the century (How many are we allowed in one century?). I knew Pittsburgh to be in the path, but we glided into town with little trouble. Deplaning I watched the frontal system sweep the runway, and by the time we entered the terminal spitting rain and raging winds shook the building. Scheduled to speak in West Virginia the following day, I sprinted to my rental car and headed west toward the interstate. I made the mistake of following the directions dictated by my iPhone, and soon I left the interstate far behind and slid toward Appalachia on a narrow, serpentine two-laner.

While certainly no hurricane (I love how the weather heads trot out that analogy.), I decided that the rain, wind, darkness, a narrow road, and 60-year-old eyes did not blend well. I bailed early. Reaching I-76 (my route south), I navigated toward Cambridge, Ohio. I am not sure if I had previously heard of Cambridge, but I am certain that I never visited (To be honest, I still don’t know why I ended up in Ohio.). Situated at the intersection of two interstates, I suspected that I could find a hotel and restaurant along the highway. I exited the freeway at Cambridge and entered the American Everywhere.

James Kunstler characterized America as “ever-busy, ever-building, ever-in-motion, ever-throwing-out the old for the new; we have hardly paused to think about what we are so busy building, and what we have thrown away. Meanwhile, the everyday landscape becomes more nightmarish and unmanageable every year. For many, the word development itself has become a dirty word.” Cambridge, I found, is this everyday landscape. The town offered its handshake with Ruby Tuesday, Hampton Inn, McDonalds, and Pizza Hut. All were the same as at home; all were the same as found throughout interstate America. To Kunstler this is nowhere; to me it’s everywhere.

America is new, rootless. Americans share an impoverished sense of place. We have no Mecca, no Angkor Wat, and no Taj Mahal. American natives have special places, but we immigrants see little value in them. Consider the conflict over Bear Butte, South Dakota. To the Lakota this is sacred ground. To Sturgis this is a potential campground and parking spot for Harley riders.

Early conservationists believed that America’s specialness could be found in her landscapes. Theodore Roosevelt said that “There can be nothing in the world more beautiful than the Yosemite, the groves of the giant sequoias and redwoods, the Canyon of the Colorado, the Canyon of the Yellowstone, the Three Tetons; and our people should see to it that they are preserved for their children and their children’s children forever, with their majestic beauty all unmarred.”. For Roosevelt, what America lacked in ancient monuments and edifices it more than gained with her transcendent lands and wildlife.

Americans, however, are now becoming detached from this heritage, with these special places. Roosevelt warned that “the lack of power to take joy in outdoor nature is as real a misfortune as the lack of power to take joy in books.” How many Americans take joy in either? In 2004, a National Endowment for the Arts report titled “Reading at Risk” found only 57 percent of American adults had read a book in 2002. The Outdoor Foundation reports that over half of Americans “take no joy in outdoor nature,” with alarming numbers of children divorced from the outdoors.

Now, slipping into Cambridge, I confront the America devised by its marketeers. I see the America invented by global hucksters, their goods relentlessly hawked on the ubiquitous television. The McDonalds on the screen is the McDonalds in Cambridge. The Wal-Mart on television is the Wal-Mart in Cambridge. The streets signs, billboards, traffic lights, and facades are no more real in Cambridge than on the tube. This version of America, known by all, is fakery unleashed and unlimited. I can’t decide if I am in the Matrix or the Truman Show.

As a child I would visit my grandparents in Paris (Texas) several times a year. In that pre-interstate age (President Eisenhower, who initiated the interstate system, did not begin his presidency until 1953.), the roads invariably wended from downtown to downtown. My sister and I knew every hamburger joint and rest stop between Bryan and Paris. Even today I remember the sweet-and-sour lusciousness of the limeade in Sulphur Springs. Each town along our route had an identity, a character.

Now, your McDonalds is my McDonalds, your Wal-Mart is my Wal-Mart. Why leave home if all that is offered away is the same as in your neighborhood? Forget the family that once owned and worked in that Sulphur Springs hamburger and limeade joint, or the snow cone cart by the railroad track that my grandfather would take us by after work. What is more important to Everywhere America is that (1) everywhere is the same, and (2) everywhere is cheap.

One hotel is easily replaced by another (Hampton by Holiday Inn Express). One restaurant is easily substituted for another (Ruby Tuesday by Chiles). But what about that for which there are no substitutes? Would you replace Gettysburg with any Civil War site? What about substituting a pileated for the ivory-billed woodpecker, or a mourning dove for the passenger pigeon, or a penguin for the great auk? In a world of cheap throwaways and easy replacements, that which cannot be replaced is at risk.

Returning to my factory hotel I jotted a note on Facebook about Cambridge, a brief snippet asking “where the hell am I?” The responses came immediately. One friend wrote “heard of it. Dangerously close to my old stomping grounds and soon to be new stomping grounds. And yes, there’s really not much there!!” My heart sank (not really; I stopped for a meal and a bed). Then another friend sent the following: “You are near an excellent birding location! It’s called “the Wilds.” It’s a reclaimed strip mining area… The facility also has yurts for overnight guests. Very cool place and staff.” Soon another posted that “that area is full of special places…the Wilds being number one.” Humm, there seems to be a there there.

But how would you know if you bumped into Cambridge from the interstate? Like America, Cambridge is hidden by a shiny plastic wrapper. Only when you peel the layers back do you find the meat on the bones, the Hocking Hills, the Salt Fork State Park, and the Wilds. The American marketing machine sells gloss and I am interested in gristle.

How can we save that which does not exist for most Americans? Federal programs such as the National Heritage Areas and America’s Byways are selective and only touch on a few of these special places. Getting people into the outdoors is only a small part of the challenge. First, they need to know where to find the outdoors. Second, once there they need help in connecting to the land, its recreations, and its stories. Modern television marketing is delivered turn-key, without any requirement that you think. In the outdoors, the experiences are earned rather than gratis.

Finally, our special places need space. The American soul (as tangibly embodied in these places) is being squeezed from all sides, with what makes the American experience special being pushed aside for a marketeer’s version of the American story. American places need space in the American mind and in the American landscape. These are the American touchstones, special places with names and physical locations where we return to remind us of who we are, what we have accomplished, and how to navigate forward based on our past experiences.

Blackburnian Warbler

Isn’t this a critical aspect and appeal of birding? Each spring I return to the Texas coast to see the same birds that pass through the same special places such as High Island. With each day new migrants appear, northern parula followed by rose-breasted grosbeak followed by blackburnian warbler followed by yellow-billed cuckoo followed by least flycatcher. What could be more reassuring than the annual reappearance of birds that we exert absolutely no control over? As long as we protect their places, their cycle will continue. As long as we protect their places, our children and grandchildren will find the same inspiration and joy in this spring ritual that I have for the past four decades.

In the early 1990s I begin developing the first birding trail with Texas Parks and Wildlife. I remember being criticized by a group from Colorado that assured me that “real” birders did not need my birding trails. Perhaps “real” birders can find these special places, but the vast majority of the rest of us can’t. With initiatives such as birding trails, IBAs, and eBird places we are bringing America’s special birding places to the attention of the public and the officials guided by their sentiments. Birding trails are a celebration of birding places, those parks, refuges, and sanctuaries where we return to reassure ourselves that the world is still spinning and that the birds are still migrating.

America is adrift, stumbling forward with a road map drawn by shock-jocks and gas bags. When lost we tune in our favorite bloviator and ask for directions. Yet there is a real behind the unreal, a wonderful store filled with goodies behind the facade. If you want to know the American story, you must experience the American places. If these places are to continue to comfort, inform, enlighten, entertain, inspire, enliven, guide, and reassure us, then they must be given ample space in the American psyche. America, now more than ever, needs space for place.

Ted Lee Eubanks
4 Nov 2010

Invertebratarians, Like Me

G&M crab cake with two sides
When did I become a vegetarian? I am asked that even more frequently than “why.” The answer to the two questions is the same. My wife, Virginia, returned home one evening, about 30 years ago, and stated that we would no longer eat meat. She asked “how did I feel?” Chicken? Nada. Fish? Zip. My cooking skills are absent. As a bachelor I survived on fried wiener sandwiches, Vienna sausages (which my Dad still calls “vienners”), frozen chicken pot pies, and Wolf brand chili. Love to, dear.

For the past 30 years I have been meatless and guiltless. Yet over the past couple of years I have begun to slip, to stray. I am off the meatless wagon. I can finally admit that I am an invertebratarian. I consume animals without a face, a mother, or a backbone.

What is in the invertebrate mix? Shrimp. Crab. Oysters. Bamboo grubs in China. Fried grasshoppers in Mexico. No backbone, no problem.

Woodrow (my younger grandson) and I finished our DC trip last week back at BWI. We could not make the last flight home on Wednesday, so we stayed at the airport and left early Thursday morning. A night at BWI means only one thing to us invertebratarians – G&M crab cakes in Linthicum.

In the late 1970s I lived in Columbia, Maryland, for a year. Being pre-Virginia, I enjoyed all of the Maryland coast seafood I could ingest. I lunched on crab soup each afternoon at the Lexington Market. I would count the days until the soft shell crab season on the Eastern Shore. And what can compare to a plate of steamed blue crabs on butcher paper with a pitcher of brew?

I also discovered Maryland crab cakes. Not the Gulf coast kind of my childhood, a flattened patty of filler with a smattering of crab. Maryland crab cakes are constructed of fresh crab meat with only enough binder to hold the mound from toppling.

There are three restaurants in the Baltimore area that serve authentic Maryland crab cakes (or at least three that I have found). One is in Dundalk, one near Harborplace (Little Italy), and the best, in my opinion, is in Linthicum.

You judge a crab shack first by the clientèle. Is there a waiting list (leave if the answer to the first question is no). Are most of the people in the restaurant curvilinear? Is there a healthy mix of ethnicities? Is the average age of a waitress over 60? Is the Baltimore or Eastern Shore accent so dense that you need a translator? If the answer to all of these is yes, you are in for a treat.

G&M is the iconic Maryland crab cake restaurant. All others are measured against G&M. Although G&M expanded a few years ago, you should insist on eating in one of the original dining rooms. Notice that the decor is decidedly ’50s. The flowers on the table are fake, the art on the walls is from the Walmart gallery, and within five minutes of being seated you will hear Dean Martin on the jukebox. Perfect!

G&M crab cake
The crab cakes? The absolute best. A G&M cake is all crab with no leftover dressing from Thanksgiving to hold it together. The sides are traditional – cole slaw and french fries. Keep it simple, and you will taste Chesapeake Bay in that mountain of blue crab on your plate. Also notice that you see no tartar sauce in the photograph. You will have to request it. G&M is confident that their crab cakes will hold their own without being doused in mayonnaise.

Also notice that I said blue crab. I know that snow crab makes good television, but the lack of character (i.e., it has no taste) leaves it unsuitable for human consumption. Snow crab is the tofu of crustaceans. Having no taste of their own, snow crabs depend on the sides and sauces.

In a few days I will be in Boiling Springs (PA) to talk about place. Food is a forceful shaper and definer of place. If I want red or green chili, I go to Hatch or Las Vegas (NM). If I crave lobster (no face, no mother, no backbone), I wait until my next trip to MA up to ME. A bowl of Tarascan soup? Patzcuaro (Michoacan, Mexico). Shima tofu? Okinawa. June berry pie? Walhalla, North Dakota. Pu’er tea? Dali (China). Fried okra? Virginia or Mary Eubanks, Austin, Texas.

Yes, we are what we eat. But we are also who we eat. Traditional foods tether us to our past, to our heritage, and to our family. Languages are adopted, clothes changed, even names transformed, but foods are passed from generation to generation as a reminder of those who came before, and therefore of who we are. Food heritage (such as in heirloom vegetables) is on the up-swing, and for the most obvious reasons. Have you tried to gag down a hothouse tomato? Now you understand the slow food movement, and why so many are interested in supporting local growers.

Eat what you are, where you are, who you are.

Ted Eubanks
11 April 2010

Washington DC – Which World Am I In?

Joining a few close friends at the White House Easter Egg Roll
There are times when travel catches up with me, and I cannot remember exactly where (or who) I am. Surely you have had the same out-of-body experience. You wake up early one morning, and wonder whose bed you are sleeping in and how did you get there.

Today I am in Washington DC. I speak at Penn State on Wednesday, and I decided to bring my youngest grandson, Woodrow, with me. Woodrow lives in Palos Verdes (near Redondo Beach), and is enjoying his spring break. We decided to combine business with pleasure on this trip, and we are squeezing in DC before we go to State College.

My grandparents brought me to DC for the first time nearly 50 years ago. How interesting to now be repeating that tradition. I suspect that I am about the same age as my grandfather then, and he did not live long after our trip.

Washington Monument framed by cherry blossoms
Woodrow and I joined the countless thousands crowding the Mall (combination of fantastic weather and the White House Easter Egg Roll). As we neared the Tidal Basin we noticed that the cherry trees were still in bloom. I suspect that we are about a week late, but I still enjoyed the color that remained. Only a couple of weeks ago I photographed cherries in Kyoto, and now I am half way around the world doing the same.

Which world am I in?

Lincoln Memorial

We finished the day at the Lincoln Memorial. This has always been my favorite of the collection (although the Korean War Memorial is extraordinarily moving). While contemplating his monument I thought back to Nara and the Buddha there. Perhaps the Lincoln Memorial is the American version of the Buddha at Nara. America invested over 700 thousand lives to rid the country of the sin of slavery, including the life of Abraham Lincoln. To share this moment with my grandson, like my grandfather did with me, is an American tradition worth repeating.

Pass it on.

Ted
5 April 2010

Austin – Spring Sneaked (or snuck) In

Wine Cup

While in Japan spring sneaked (or snuck, depending on your origins. In East Texas, use snuck) in through the back door. There were several spring wildflowers blooming along my trail this Easter Sunday in Austin. Although normally suffocated by the various exotic weeds that dominate any space given them, there are still a few lovely spots in the city where the colors endemic to this area may be appreciated.

My favorite wildflower is wine cup. I know; as a Texan I should vote for bluebonnet. But bluebonnets and paintbrushes are ubiquitous and collectively gaudy. The wine cup is subtle, rarely collecting in sizable aggregations. The color of the flower morphs with age, from a dark Cabernet to a light Zinfandel before it fades.

I have placed a folder (creatively named “Flowers”) in My Gallery. These are all IPhotos from this morning in Austin.

Ted
Easter Sunday, 4 April, 2010