The Soulful City

Certain foods (especially wine) are renowned for their “goût de terroir,” or taste of the soil. Terroir encompasses all of the natural elements (water, air, climate, soil, geography) that influence the taste of a crop, such as grapes. I will argue that the best peaches in the world are from the Texas Hill Country, and that the best grapefruit are from the Rio Grande Valley (and the best oysters are from Hiroshima, the best yams are from the Cockpit Country in Jamaica, and the best Pu’er tea is from Yunnan Province in China).

Cities have a ”terroir” as well, except this feature, this element, is better expressed as “soul.” There are soulful cities such as New Orleans, Santa Fe, Coyoacán, and Paris, places so distinctive, so singular, that you would never mistake them for another place on the planet.

Pu’er tea

I have lived in three cities with varying degrees of soul – Galveston, Austin, and Houston. One of the three has become soulless in my lifetime, scrubbed clean by new urbanists and gentrifiers of that which made it attractive and distinctive in the first place. The other two are rushing toward what seems now to be a similar antiseptic destination.

My wife, Virginia, and I recently stayed about 24 hours in Houston, and before returning to Austin we wandered by the remains of the Houston Farmers Market on Airline (Market). All that is left of the Market is one tiny sliver of the precious use-to-be, hemmed in by sterile, colorless warehouses touted by Houston’s new urbanists and James Beardian chefs as Houston’s deserved future. As one of the partners gushed at the groundbreaking; “Houston is long overdue for a world-class market.”

Houston, you had one.

Coyoacán

My connection to the Market goes back almost 50 years, to a time when I first shopped Caninos’s Market with my parents. The Market was one of the great cultural spaces in Texas. For example, I cannot think of a place that I would rather visit at Christmas, with all of the traditional Mexican foods and spices displayed by hundreds of small vendors in row-after-row sensual bliss. The go-to place for Christmas tamales? The Market. Need a place to have your pecans cracked? The Market. Need pomegranates? The Market. Need a crate of Rio Red grapefruit just trucked up from the Valley (South Texas)? The Market.

Now, the soul of this space has been expunged. Houston is quickly becoming just another ugly, soulless city, and this may be the iconic moment, the iconic sacrifice, in its transformation.

And what is planned for the Market? Here is an article that details this murder of a cultural space. Does race play a part in this? How could it be more obvious then when you destroy an organic expression of the Mexican soul as expressed in Houston’s el mercado without a peep from the preservation community since they are singularly focused on buildings and not on people?

Houston Farmer’s Market

Growth for the sake of growth is the ideology of the cancer cell…Edward Abbey

Austin, this is you. The City of Austin is solely focused on facilitating growth, of aligning all of its resources to help feed the insatiable appetite of soulless, spiritless, insipid growth. This is Waller Creek. This is Lady Bird Lake. This is Pease Park. Austin is rushing headlong into become just another soulless, nondescript city with a single claim to fame – growth.

Soulful cities have musicians, not just music. Soulful cities have actors, not just theatre. Soulful cities have artists, not just art. Soulful cities have nature, not just parks. Soulful cities have congregations, not just churches. Soulful cities have neighborhoods, not just residences. Soulful cities are interlaced with roads and trails that tell stories rather than mind numbing “transportation corridors.” Soulful cities live their histories rather than just protect old buildings.

Although I cannot prove it with my life experiences, I do not believe that growth and change are inevitable. However, if they are inevitable, then they must be shaped, managed. For example, why isn’t there a strategy to protect the soul of the city? Cities have plans for parks, roads, buildings, flooding, sewage, and the like, but what about a plan for soul (here is a plan for Edmonton along these lines)? In truth, I wonder if the mayor, council, and city manager can even describe (or sense) the soul of Austin.

Saint Mary Cathedral, Austin

Urban growth (sprawl) is a linear, left-brained affair, obsessed with facts rather than feelings. Growth, in the urbanist scheme, is to be engineered.

Yet, the way in which we judge the quality of our lives, our happiness, isn’t factual at all. This is where Austin is failing (and Houston has already failed). Happiness isn’t engineered; it is nurtured and nourished. The soulful city grows organically of its own accord, spreading in directions that cannot be anticipated, only allowed.

There is a quality even meaner than outright ugliness or disorder, and this meaner quality is the dishonest mask of pretended order, achieved by ignoring or suppressing the real order that is struggling to exist and to be served…Jane Jacobs

Interpretive Planning at the Neill-Cochran House Slave Quarters

Today, April 3, we held a workshop on interpreting enslavement for the Texas Historical Commission’s (THC) Real Places conference. The workshop convened at the Neill-Cochran House Museum in Austin (NCHM), and the panelists included Kristin Gallas of Muse Consulting, Dr. Rowena Dasch (executive director of the NCHM), Dr. Tara Dudley (UT), and myself (Fermata Inc.). THC’s Charles Peveto moderated our workshop.

We were able to unbox the six interpretive panels that Fermata designed for the newly restored NCHM slave quarters for the first time. The installation of the panels will take place on April 15.

Thanks to all who attended the workshop, and for all of the input from and participation by the attendees.

Neill-Cochran House Museum Slave Quarters

After 24 months of exhaustive research and design, we have completed the interpretive strategy and the initial implementation for the Neill-Cochran House Museum Slave Quarters in Austin. Over the past two years the Quarters has been restored, we have completed the interpretive plan, we have finished the initial introductory brochure that is available at the museum, and now our panels are at the fabricator. The interpretive panels will be installed by April when the Texas Historical Commission Real Places conference will join us at the Quarters for lectures and a tour.

This project has evolved into a remarkable team effort among Dr. Rowena Dasch (executive director for the NCHM), Dr. Tara Dudley (Assistant Professor at UT), and myself. The interpretive strategy I developed ranges from impersonal to personal and utilizes didactic as well as dialogic techniques within the space of a large suburban yard.

In addition, I chose to cover the entire span of the African experience in Texas, from Esteban in November 1528 to the present. In four years, we will commemorate the 500th anniversary of the arrival of the first enslaved African in Texas. By 2028, I hope to have a Texas historical marker installed in Galveston that memorializes his arrival. Galveston is the alpha (Esteban) and omega (Juneteenth) of the enslaved African experience in Texas, and hopefully we at the NCHM Slave Quarters can join with Galveston in honoring the occasion.

If you have the opportunity, attend the THC Real Places conference this April in Austin and join us at the NCHM Slave Quarters for our talk and tour. Use the link below for more information about the conference.

https://lnkd.in/d8HcgKat

The Heart of a Park

The red-crowned parrot (Amazona viridigenalis) is an endangered parrot from northeast Mexico that has recently extended (or returned) its range to the lower Rio Grande Valley (Valley) of South Texas. These parrots are only found in the U.S. in the Valley, with numbers congregating in towns such as McAllen and Brownsville. The red-crowned parrot, along with the green parakeet, are endemic, singular. And, like so many neotropical birds that range no farther north than South Texas, they are found at the Quinta Mazatlan World Birding Center (Quinta).

Red-crowned parrots ©2023 Ted Lee Eubanks

In the earliest days of the World Birding Centers project, I developed vision plans for many of the communities hoping to participate. Our plan for Mission, for example, focused on butterflies and led to the National Butterfly Center there along the border. In Weslaco, our vision plan convinced the city to participate in what has become the Estero Llano Grande State Park. In South Padre, our vision plan helped the city attract state funding to building the South Padre Birding and Nature Center.


At Quinta, our early work focused on an interpretive plan as well as exhibits within the nature center. Larry Pressler, then head of McAllen Parks and Recreation, asked us to develop the interpretive plan and implementation in 2005. Larry had been instrumental in buying Quinta Mazatlan for McAllen at a last-minute auction of the property. Several years later, Quinta asked me to develop a vision plan for the next phase of the park. Last week, the City of McAllen presented the final design for this expansion to the public.

Green parakeet at a nest at Quinta Mazatlan ©2023 Ted Lee Eubanks

Let’s stop for a moment and think about McAllen and Quinta. The population of McAllen is around 150,000, with 86.2% of the population being Latino or Hispanic. McAllen is 11 miles from the Mexican border. McAllen’s average household income is half of Austin’s. The average median household income in McAllen is $54,422, while Austin’s is $110,300.


McAllen has few of Austin’s advantages. Yet, McAllen is about to build an expansion to a city park that will result in one of the most spectacular civic spaces in Texas while retaining public ownership of the park.


Here is an example of what is to be expected in this new park expansion. This information is from the City of McAllen website.

  • The project is supported by Texas Parks & Wildlife, as the Center for Urban Ecology (CUE) is being designed to attract both people and wildlife.
  • The expansion includes the planting of over 24,000 new native plants, over 90% native to the Lower Rio Grande Valley.
  • A five-acre Children’s Discovery Park and an innovative curriculum to use the Center for a big outdoor learning lab will be made possible through a partnership with McAllen ISD.
  • An interactive model—a physical metaphor of the Rio Grande River from Colorado to the Gulf of Mexico, will be made possible with the support of the McAllen Public Utility.
  • Children and all visitors will enjoy the Vantage Point, an outdoor amphitheater and educational exhibit deck sponsored by Vantage Bank Texas, Loring Cook Foundation, and the James W. & Kathleen C. Collins Family Foundation.
  • Additional attractions include the H-E-B Health & Wellness Pavilion for demonstrations on healthy cooking, yoga and more.
  • The Economic Development Administration is supporting the teaching spaces for entrepreneurial and global tourism opportunities at the CUE.
  • Finally, the transformative project will feature a Metro McAllen Park & Ride, encouraging the use of public transportation. According to the City of McAllen; “The project, in the amount of $51.9 million, will transform the 12 acres of the nature sanctuary, into an educational space. This landmark project could not be made possible without the support from the State of Texas, Texas Parks and Wildlife, Hidalgo County, and UTRGV – The University of Texas Rio Grande Valley.”

Quinta Mazatlan expansion courtesy of the City of McAllen

For those who may not be aware, the Valley is a birding “hotspot,” one of those places where birders from all over the U.S. and foreign countries such as England and France travel to visit and see birds (and nature in general) that are simply not possible to encounter anywhere else in this country. Nature tourism is a significant business in the Valley, and communities such as McAllen, Mission, Weslaco, and Brownsville aggressively market themselves as nature destinations. If you notice above, the EDA is funding teaching spaces in the new building for educating local students about entrepreneurial and global tourism opportunities.


Now that the City of Austin has brought the current Zilker Metropolitan Park vision plan to its well-deserved demise, Austin should now take the time to look beyond its own borders, its park planning myopia, to see just how others have created public parks.


The City of Austin and its Parks and Recreation Department (PARD) have always relied on a local (and small) clique of architects, landscape architects, engineers, and planners. This isn’t out of the ordinary; I have seen the inbred nature of community development in countless cities and towns. Local professionals are connected at the hip to many of their city counterparts. All reside in a tiny closet, with the same voices bouncing off the walls with the same time-worn answers to the same repetitious questions.


This is precisely the relationships that many (but not all) city employees and officials prefer. Albert Einstein once said; “A person who never made a mistake never tried anything new.” But to many within the city planning and development community, the fear of mistakes trumps creativity. This is the paralyzing fear of “thinking outside of the box” when, truthfully, no box exists.


The result? When one compares Austin’s parks to others in the country the one element that is impossible to overlook is poor planning and a resultant mediocrity. Failure quickly leads to a wish to quickly abandon Austin’s most historic parks to the private sector. If you can’t fix it, give it away. This is the “let’s see if the private sector can do better with their own money and potential profit” mantra.


Austin nonprofits often partner in this “public-private” embrace. The development community controls the boards, and choose projects to support that otherwise conflict with the purpose of the organization. When I first became involved in these issues in the 1960s, nonprofits and developers (and often the business community at large) were always at odds. But, over time, the business community learned that it is easier to join than fight.

Quinta Mazatlan expansion courtesy of the City of McAllen

Of course there are nonprofits such as SOS still in the fray; many give much back to the community. But look at the boards of many of these organizations, their lack of diversity (white, white, white), and who their board members represent. Try it. I have done it with many of the large nonprofits in Austin. You may be surprised.


Pease Park, Waller Creek, Lady Bird Lake, Shoal Creek, and other civic and open spaces, all the property of we the taxpayers, are now in the hands of nonprofits and private interests. For more information about this trend nationally, I suggest reading “Parks for Profit – Selling Nature in the City” by Kevin Loughran.


Austin needs to look at the way that these projects are conceived, organized, and managed. Remember; the Environmental Commission as well as the Parks and Recreation Board (7-3) approved this failed plan (!). Austin needs commissioners with experience in the issues being considered by their commissions and boards. We need to end rotation lists at departments such as PARD that do little more than ensure that the same shop-worn voices are heard time and time again. Austin needs change.


McAllen has chosen another path, another way to celebrate a civic space. McAllen has raised over $50 million for the expansion of Quinta Mazatlan, with every cent coming from public donations. There is no public-private partnership in McAllen. The park will remain the property of McAllen Parks and Recreation, and the staff will remain employed by the city.


More important, McAllen will have a remarkable nature park, adjacent to the original historic hacienda that remains a social hub for McAllen. Every student in McAllen ISD attends classes at Quinta Mazatlan, not to mention other school districts in the Valley. All of this is being accomplished in a Latino community with a median income half of Austin.

Quinta Mazatlan expansion courtesy of the City of McAllen

Austin, take a deep breath. Start over. I have worked in countless communities around the country where problems like Austin’s have been solved, even if on a smaller scale. Let’s try something creative at Zilker, with new people with new visions that embrace the public’s desires. Use these desires to envision the park and define that which enlivens and inspires the community rather than tearing it apart. A vision plan should unveil the heart of the park.


Congratulations and felicidades to all my wonderful friends in McAllen. After nearly twenty years of effort, Quinta Mazatlan continues to move forward. Your successes provide lessons for us all.


Finally, thanks to Austin’s mayor and fellow council members for bringing this misguided and misdirected planning effort to an end.

Ted Lee Eubanks, President
Fermata Inc.
Certified Interpretive Planner, Certified Heritage Interpreter

Mount Calvary Cemetery

Michael Barnes of the Austin American Statesman wrote an article about my work on preserving the historic Mount Calvary Catholic Cemetery from a freeway expansion proposed by the Texas Department of Transportation (TxDOT). Michael is an exceptional journalist, and he outdid himself with this article. Here is a link to the article published in this morning’s paper.

https://www.statesman.com/story/news/history/2022/12/01/mt-calvary-catholic-cemetery-immigrant-east-austin-txdot-i35-expansion/65470926007/

Thanks, Michael, for the wonderful article and much appreciated support!